Walking With Williams

A couple of months ago, I booked train tickets to Windermere for my first wildcamp of 2010. Initial plans were to hostel at Windermere Wednesday night, then bus to Langdale, walk to and camp on Haystacks, then Dale Head and finally end up in Keswick for the bus back to windermere Saturday morning. However, due to the forecast snow and gales, I chickened out of camping, and instead chose to hostel at Buttermere.

Thus, after an excellent journey and sleep Wednesday, I found myself Thursday morning bussing to Buttermere Youth Hostel. This journey was an experience. Started with heavy snow on Dunmail Raise, just missing photographing an extremely low flying plane over Thirlmere, and confirmation of the amount of snow lying on the hills. Then, the next bus journey saw us put a BMW into a fence near Catbells, and a slippy ascent of Honister Pass.

Views from the Buttermere Rambler

Anyhow, finally, Thursday lunchtime I decided the afternoon wouldn’t give enough time for an ascent on Haystacks, especially as I hadn’t got an up to date weather forecast, so instead, I took a walk around Buttermere lake. I did spice up the low level walk with some scrambling up the two waterfalls at base of Red Pike and High Crag – all in the name of photography  Thursday evening saw a lively chat with a youth hostel room mate, a beef burger and a few beers and double Jura single malts.

Friday morning, and I was up early. After breakfast, I walked along the SE shore of Buttermere to the bottom of Haystacks, and started climbing towards Scarth Gap. Nearing the top, I had to choose whether to go all out along High Crag towards Red Pike or be sensible and just bite of Haystacks. I choose the latter, mainly as snow and low visibility was forecast for around 14:00.

The ascent of Haystacks was ok; the large rock steps were covered by fresh snow which gave good enough grip although a few sections did look tricky for the descent. Infact, following the main path over the cairns was difficult when entering the rocky sections. Several down climbs on icy steps nearly forced a rethink and retreat, but no, I scrambled down and evently reached Innominate Tarn about 11:00.

Innominate Tarn and the nameless tarn on Haystacks

The scenery was fantastic, the snowy Gables and Pillar dominating the vista with the tarns providing perfect subjects for photography. I wanted to get the tripod out, and play with filters etc. However, a huge black cloud was incoming from Borrowdale, and I feared this might bring snow, a white-out or general hill fog, so I continued with some hand held shots and thus allowed me to descend shortly after.

A tarn on Haystacks

It was on descending the rocky summit of Haystacks that my heavy rucksack (the DSLR, tripod, crampons, axe and winter clothing a light sack does not make) gave me the biggest problems. My centre of gravity was way off, the the rucksack did it’s best to pull me of the slippy but sure handholds when scrambling down the icy steps. Also, my Scarpa SLs providing great problems in keeping traction in compacted snow, I definately seemed to slip more frequently than others around.

Upon descending to Scarth Gap, I took a left to a rocky outcrop that provided a perfect view to upper and lower Ennerdale. The High Level Route on Pillar stuck out in the snow so clearly, and it was supprising how much more snow was on the valley floor than in the neighbouring Buttermere.A re-ascent of Scarth Gap and uneventful descent back to Buttermere followed.

Wild and snowy Ennerdale

Last time I walked down this hill, I nearly cried with pain due to my knee, and I waited and waited for a reshow. But now, the knee was ok, even with the weight I was carrying. Infact, the only thing I really noticed was my lack of hill fitness – infact the largest hill I have done in 2010 was a leisurely paced Whernside.

Views towards Dale Head from Buttermere

However, peak bagging will soon pick up. April will bring Snowdon twice. Then Scafell Pike, Nevis and two other Munros are the aim of May’s Scotland holiday.